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Understanding the ABC’s of LN/ZP/NA/AF: Unraveling the Lexicon of the NoLow Movement

With its robust portfolio of around 11 zero proof beers in rotation at any time, BrewDog brewery arguably crafts more non-alcoholic beer options for the American market than any other alcohol-producing entity. But the Scotland-based brewery encountered a wee marketing snag when it introduced its flagship line of NAs in the States: according to the U.S. government, their labeling bordered on a lie.

BrewDog’s Punk AF, Elvis AF and Hazy AF play a cheeky game of double entendre – advertising the brewery’s irreverent image and the fact that these beers are AF, also known as alcohol-free. Trouble is, while the names reflect reality in the UK, stateside agencies do not consider BrewDog’s AF brand of beverages alcohol-free at all, as they contain between .01-.49% alcohol by volume (ABV). This makes them, by official American definition, non-alcoholic (NA).

BrewDog Punk AF
BrewDog Punk AF

Let us explain: though most people use AF, NA, zero proof (ZP) and variations of no/low (also known as NoLo) interchangeably, only a 0.0% ABV beer like Heineken 0.0 or Bud Zero can legally call itself alcohol-free in the U.S. A beer that contains less than .5% ABV must call itself non-alcoholic and also state, “Contains less than .5% ABV.”


BrewDog isn’t breaking any laws, as the words “alcohol-free” never appear. However, its misfortunate misnomers hint at the myriad confusions lurking around so many corners of the NoLo landscape.


For instance, NoLo wine labels follow the same rules as beer though NA wine that originally contained ethanol also needs to say “de-alcoholized” or “alcohol removed.” Non-alcoholic spirits, curiously, don’t have to say anything at all.


With so much complexity in one unopened bottle or can, how can a NoLo initiate expect to navigate an entire aisle or menu? Inevitably questions open up like: How do producers make NoLo beverages? Are they safe? Why are they so expensive? Is it cool to say mocktail? Why Do NoLo Drinks Cost So Much?

If there’s one thing serious purveyors want it's for you to take their products seriously.

“Sometimes when you have a zero proof list it can seem like it’s a bunch of juice or an afterthought,” says Kailey Jenkins, GM of James Beard Foundation outstanding chef Michael Solomonov’s Laser Wolf restaurant in Philadelphia. “We tweak our (zero proof cocktail) recipes, make syrups, and need to figure out how to create the same body and balance without the alcohol.”


No matter if it’s a handcrafted cocktail or a near beer, producers often trial and error hundreds of prototypes as they formulate an alcohol-like drink with no alcohol. The labor, ingredients and equipment can quickly add up to higher price points than their alcoholic counterparts.


“An old fashioned, there’s a recipe for that. But here you have to make up for those flavors because people have an expectation of what an old fashioned is supposed to taste like,” says Amanda Lewis, co-owner of South Jersey NoLo bar Mercantile 1888.

Amanda Lewis and Stephanie Kinney of Mercantile 1888
Amanda Lewis and Stephanie Kinney of Mercantile 1888

That’s why these drinks often cost the same or more as their boozy brethren and why experts approve of the terms “bartender” and “bar” for NoLo-only people and places but gently recommend ridding the word “mocktail” from your lexicon.


“Some people feel it cheapens it,” says Jenkins. “It kind of insinuates a fake version or something that doesn’t take as much care.”

How Do You Produce a NoLo Beverage?


The most common way to make a NoLo drink is to produce a low-alc version first. Then either dilute or remove the alcohol molecules – usually by reverse osmosis or vacuum distillation.


Reverse osmosis (RO) involves running a fermented liquid through high-pressure membrane filters to separate the water from the alcohol, flavor, and aromatic compounds then subsequently rehydrating those compounds. But RO filters can't remove enough ethanol to qualify as alcohol-free.


Instead, 0.0% AF drinks usually get run through a column still under a vacuum, reducing the boiling point of ethanol so it separates from the desired compounds at a lower heat, leaving delicate aromatic molecules intact.


Some NA wine producers use spinning cone columns, a version of vacuum distillation.

Much can be lost along with the alcohol, which provides mouthfeel, finish, and balance. Alcohol can also mask undesirable notes.


“The first time a consumer tries NA beer they might say it tastes like potatoes,” says Meagen Anderson, founder of the AFicioNAdo Certification Program. “We’re restricting the amount of alcohol expression, which means we’re allowing some of these other aromas to break through.”


Experienced producers compensate with sweeteners, artificial flavorings or natural additives. Brewers might add extracts like hop oils.


NL producers don’t always share their processes, but they must display a nutritional label. “Look at the ingredients. That’s what you’re getting,” says Chris Abbott from The Pathfinder.

To assure wine quality, Rachel Martin from Oceano Zero says, “Where are the grapes grown? There’s no vintage, no vineyard, no terroir. The first ingredient should be dealcoholized wine.”


Some winemakers make “varietal juice” from type-specific grapes without fermentation, not concord grapes.


Can Everyone Drink NoLo Safely?


Dr. Keith Villa, founder of Ceria beers, says some 0.0% beers tested above .06% ABV. The TTB tests all 0.0% beer to validate claims.


Lilley from Three Spirit advises consumers to check for ingredients like caffeine, valerian, and ashwagandha which may be unsuitable for pregnant people.


Will ZP Beverages Make Me Sick?


Without alcohol’s antiseptic properties, ZP beverages can support pathogen growth. “If somebody is on the filling line and goes to the bathroom and doesn’t wash their hands it can potentially make people sick,” says Villa.


Tunnel pasteurization is preferred. Flash pasteurization, done before packaging, leaves room for contamination.

Tunnel Pasteurizer Photo credit: Shane Casey
Tunnel Pasteurizer Photo credit: Shane Casey

Avoid kegged ZP beer unless lines are clean and dedicated. Yeast can sneak into lines and ruin the product.


Non-pasteurized NL beer exposed to yeast may ferment and cause cans to bulge or explode. “It’s a disservice to the customer,” says Villa.


BrewDog flash pasteurizes but rigorously tests microbiology before distribution.


How (Long) Do I Store ZP Products?


Keep ZP beer below 39°F. Don’t store NA products longer than alcoholic versions. Most offer a drink-by date.


“‘Hey do you have NA beer?’ and it's all the way in the back and it’s not cold, I’d probably say no thank you,” says Anderson.


Whether at home or out, always ask about how ZP products are handled. Transparency is key to keeping customers safe and confident.


As the NoLo industry evolves, follow the Adult Non-Alcoholic Beverage Association (ANBA), AFiciaNAdos, and Zero Proof Go, which is building a glossary of terms to keep the public informed.


BrewDog is leading by open sourcing its recipes so homebrewers can make their favorites at home.


“What can I do for these … craft beer fans?” says Chambers. “We still want the enjoyable flavor of the beer even if they don’t want the alcohol.”


This article has been reprinted with the author's permission from its original publication date on Zero Proof Go.

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